11th Feb 2005
Virginia
and
I
went
for
a
long
weekend
down
in
Kent,
staying
in
a
B&B
in
Canterbury
(cold
cold,
screws
loose
on
door
handle,
light
not
working).
We
had
two
meals
at
the
Old
Gate
Inn,
a
convenient
hostelry
near
where
we
were
staying
in.
I
admired
the
way
beautiful
waitress
Katya
smiled
there,
like
feeling
the
glow
from
a
brazier.
We
went
to
church
in
Tenterden
where
Ginny
went
to
the
Sunday
school
–
good
service
and
the
Minister
was
getting
involvement
from
the
people.
Low
brow
which
suits
me.
Saw
Ginny’s
old
school
in
St
Michaels
before
doing
Leeds
Castle
bitterly
cold
wind
so
Ginny
didn't
head
for
the
maze.
We
indulged
ourselves
in
history
-
recent
history
such
as
the
Second
World
War
represented
by
the
tunnels
beneath
Dover
Castle.
Impressive
room
housing
the
repeater
equipment.
The
unsavoury
lives
of
those
who
have
been
called
Kings
of
England
were
instanced
at
Leeds
Castle
(interesting
seeing
where
the
great
powers
of
today
the
G8
have
met.)
The
buried
time
of
the
Romans
underneath
the
shops
in
Canterbury.
Like
going
back
in
time.
Canterbury
Cathedral
itself
is
like
a
historical
scrapbook,
an
ever-changing
monument.
7th Apr 2005
A
visit
to
Uganda
with
a
small
Christian
charity
Afrinspire
that
I
help
set
up
computers
for
which
are
sent
to
Uganda
and
other
African
countries.
In
April
people
from
that
charity
went
to
see
projects
supported
in
Uganda,
and
I
tagged
along
to
see
Africa
for
the
first
time.
This
wasn't
a
tourist
trip
-
we
didn't
see
gorillas
in
the
mist,
or
other
vistas
of
nature
which
I
hope
to
see
one
day.
But
we
did
see
Uganda
from
street
level
and
got
to
meet
Ugandans
face
to
face.
It
was
a
real
privilege
to
go
there,
and
be
welcomed
so
warmly
by
those
I
met.
Excuse
an
attempt
at
a
stream
of
consciousness,
or
perhaps
a
Nile
of
consciousness.
My
memories
not
a
coherent
whole.
Instead
scenes
and
sights
and
sounds
and
smells
tastes
into
my
thoughts
tumble.
Where
start
I?
Above
the
clouds?
Above
the
sands?
Desert
plain
blank
featureless
snatches.
Yet
circles
large
circles
written
onto
the
dry
expanse.
Signs
omens
of?
On
the
flight
map
names
legends
are
displayed
-
Serengeti,
Nile,
Lake
Victoria.
I
am
being
borne
towards
someone
else's
world.
Masindi.
Poor
desperately
poor
village.
Red
termite
mounds
and
round
thatched
huts
swell
in
the
fields
and
scrubland.
Despite
disease
and
strife
they
smile
true
joy.
Despite
difficulties
getting
education
they're
not
stupid,
they're
trying
to
help
each
other.
Despite
(or
due
to)
the
poverty
they
generously
press
hats
and
sieving
bowls
and
chickens
on
us.
The
chickens
foul
up
(pun
jest
joke)
the
back
of
one
of
the
jeeps
on
the
long
way
back
to
Kampala.
A
slanting
line
across
the
road.
Circles
you
can
stand
in
and
be
photographed.
Pretty
official
looking
certificates
to
buy
since
crossing
equator.
Dubious
demonstration
of
water
swirling
different
ways
down
plugholes
north
south
of
line.
Sham
ebony
and
rosewood
artifacts
for
sale.
Yellow
weaver
birds
ignoring
all
this
and
climbing
in
and
out
of
their
nests.
The
White
Nile.
Wide
waste
of
tumbling
water.
Too
wide
to
photograph.
Just
look
at
wide-eyed,
thinking
of
Speke.
Our
soldier
escort
carries
his
AK47.
The
Ugandan
army
on
the
cliffs
above
the
bridge.
To
the
north
of
us
somewhere
the
LRA.
Sudan
some
say.
On
the
way
to
Karuma
Falls
we
met
a
military
roadblock.
Disconcertingly
diverted
into
an
army
barracks.
Before
we
were
allowed
to
see
the
falls.
My
homeland
reaches
out
for
me
even
here.
Amid
the
traffic
fume
chaos
of
Kampala
Sams
restaurant
caters
for
us
-
the
avocado
milk
shake
and
crocodile
fillet
taste.
The
TV
at
the
Kolping
Guest
House
shows
Norwich
beating
Man
Utd
as
we
dine
on
omelettes.
Franco
unknowingly
plays
the
song
Virginia
chose
for
us
to
dance
to.
Katuna
Border.
The
middle
of
nowhere,
neither
Uganda
nor
Rwanda.
Beggars
haunt
one
-
to
give
not
to
give?
Large
tankers
motor
on
past.
Incoherent
stories
from
want-to-be-friends
strangers.
A
strange
cartel
-
the
money
changers
clad
in
green
coats.
Up
on
the
roof
of
the
world
with
mountains
quilted
by
sorghum
fields.
The
stars
blaze
so
bright
at
midnight,
Orion's
belt
is
burnished.
A
volcano
in
Rwanda
crowned
in
mist.
They
stamp
out
a
Rikiga
dance
in
the
near
dark
from
a
charcoal
stove
in
Guster's
house.
Words
and
languages
fascinate
me,
and
Uganda
was
a
rich
confluence
of
tongues.
English
is
the
common
and
the
official
language,
but
there
are
forty
languages
spoken
in
different
areas.
I
didn't
pick
much
up
-
one
or
two
words
in
Swahili
(a
trade
language
which
originated
in
contact
between
Africans
and
Arab
traders.)
Swahili
is
the
official
language
of
Kenya
(we
flew
on
Kenyan
Air)
and
Tanzania,
but
not
Uganda.
It
was
difficult
to
find
postcards
in
Uganda
(tourism
is
still
an
adventure,)
one
I
did
find
had
an
elephant
on
it
with
'Jambo'
(Swahili
for
hello.)
Thanks
is
'Asante',
thanks
a
lot
is
'Asante
sana'
(Os
and
As
sounded
rather
close
to
me.)
Going
around
one
heard
'Mzungu'
a
lot
(pronounced
'Musungu'
means
white
man),
the
plural
is
'Bazungu'.
'Mzee'
(said
'musay')
means
respected
elder.
The
'Bakiga'
people
speak
'Rikiga'
(the
K
here
is
a
"ch"
in
sound
but
in
Kabale
it's
a
"k".)
Two-wheeled
vehicles
are
'boda-bodas'.
I
was
told
'boda'
is
a
corruption
of
the
English
word
"border"
in
the
Luganda
language,
and
'boda-bodas'
were
used
for
travelling
the
"border".
We
were
in
the
second
biggest
city
in
Uganda
called
Mbarara
during
an
election.
A
vivid
candidate
was
Lawrence,
the
'boda-boda'
man,
whose
campaign
centred
on
how
few
jobs
there
are
(even
Ugandans
with
jobs
often
have
to
moonlight
too.)
His
motivated
supporters
raced
around
on
motorbikes
and
the
backs
of
trucks,
making
their
voice
heard.
Ugandans
are
less
slaves
to
the
clock
than
we
are,
perhaps
partly
due
to
not
all
having
watches
and
timepieces?
The
mountain
area
(Rwancerere)
we
stayed
in
had
drums
which
served
to
tell
the
villagers
it
was
time
for
Church
or
suchlike,
depending
on
the
rhythm
beaten
out.
The
school
bell
was
an
old
car
inner
wheel,
quite
melodic.
You
see
old
cars
and
buses
in
various
states
of
decay
around
the
place.
The
evening
agenda
is
pre-supper
then
wash
then
tea
then
bed.
A
necessary
hand
washing
ritual
comes
before
eating
with
hot
water
poured
over
your
hands
and
a
bar
of
soap
in
the
bowl.
Water
does
not
come
out
of
taps
(one
duty
of
the
children
is
to
fetch
water
from
boreholes
or
dubious
springs
or
bottom
of
mountains,)
and
so
Ugandans
are
frugal
with
using
water.
I
didn't
master
body
washing
in
a
bowl.
Hotels
etc
provide
slip-ons
to
wear
in
the
washrooms.
Mental
and
physical
flexibility
come
in
handy
for
the
toilet
arrangements.
Newspapers
are
sold
stapled
(so
you
know
you're
getting
an
unread
edition.)
Ugandans
are
a
warm
people,
you
can
see
boys
and
girls
holding
hands
with
each
other
without
it
meaning
anything
more.
Handshakes
often
seemed
to
involve
interlocking
the
thumbs.
Applause
in
Masindi
was
clap
three
times,
then
clap
three
times
more,
then
clap
again
this
time
ending
with
sliding
one
hand
off
and
a
high-pitched
keening.
We
got
to
sign
loads
of
visitor
books,
listen
(and
make)
speeches,
and
be
entertained
by
singing
and
dancing.
We
were
white
people,
this
was
formal
protocol,
they
were
in
many
cases
acknowledging
help
given,
but
I
also
sensed
a
Ugandan
way
of
doing
things
-
a
way
of
respecting
people
we
have
lost
in
the
West.
The
singing
and
dancing
was
impressive,
they
all
seemed
to
have
a
genetic
sense
of
tempo.
Especially
moving
and
memorable
were
the
young
people
at
Shuuku
Vocational
College
(a
very
demanding
"Acholi"
dance,)
and
the
very
different
"Batwa"
(pygmy)
dance.
Education
particularly
vocational
education
is
high
on
the
agenda.
Parents
want
their
children
to
go
to
school,
and
the
children
want
to
go.
The
style
of
teaching
is
to
the
West
antiquated,
and
the
dormitories
at
boarding
schools
can
be
very
cramped,
but
there
is
a
desire
to
learn
which
is
the
important
thing.
Equipment
and
books
are
in
short
supply
so
chemistry
may
be
less
practical
and
more
rote
learning
of
"-ate"
means
an
oxygen
compound
and
"-ite"
a
sulphite
one.
Christianity
is
very
evident
in
Uganda,
Islam
to
a
lesser
extent.
Christian
slogans
on
the
backs
of
cars,
stores
called
"Divine
Ebenezer
Cake
Shop",
cabinet
ministers
quite
happy
to
sing
hymns
in
public.
Schools
are
often
of
a
religious
foundation,
the
Church
in
Uganda
performs
a
real
service
to
the
community.
It
does
have
challenges
like
polygamy
-
this
is
dealt
with
pragmatically
by
controlling
the
level
of
integration
into
the
Church.
Where
there
are
(some)
tarmac
roads
there
are
also
perilous
potholes
and
savage
sleeping
policemen.
Often
it's
dirt
track
(a
very
rutted
one
going
up
the
mountains
to
Rwancerere.)
Uganda
is
very
dusty
but
paradoxically
people
seem
to
dress
as
if
they
were
going
to
a
party.
You
do
see
colourful
scenes
as
one
drives
around
from
the
variegated
pyramids
of
fruit
to
the
schoolchildren
like
flowering
bulbs
in
an
English
spring.
Primary
school
children
wearing
bright
primary
colours.
Kampala
is
a
traffic
nightmare
with
dire
air
quality
and
weaving
'matutus'
(minibus
taxis)
and
suicidal
motorcyclists.
Speaking
of
night
don't
drive
during
it
-
daytime
is
bad
enough
with
cyclists
careering
everywhere
but
at
night
you
get
overladen
lorries
driving
without
lights
to
avoid
being
stopped.
Government
cars
have
red
licence
plates.
The
law
is
based
on
English
law.
Stones
and
gates
and
loofahs
and
plush
armchairs
and
wood
and
fruit
are
piled
by
the
roadside
for
sale.
And
coffins
too
-
life
expectancy
here
is
in
the
low
thirties,
and
infant
mortality
high
(children
not
talked
about
until
1
year
old.)
You
see
a
lot
of
charcoal
bags
for
sale
or
being
transported
dangerously
on
lorries
-
charcoal
is
used
for
cooking
and
heating
in
stoves
with
faces.
So
much
charcoal
that
the
forests
are
in
danger
and
the
government
has
started
forest
planting
programmes.
Even
places
with
electricity
have
regular
power
cuts.
When
night
comes
in
the
mountains
it
is
really
night
-
you
retreat
around
the
charcoal
stove
for
warmth
and
the
stars
blaze
forth.
Ugandans
make
their
own
bricks
in
hundreds
of
brick
kilns
-
no
planning
permission
needed
here.
Buildings
range
from
grass
huts
through
cattle
dung
and
murum
(clay?)
walls
to
brick
buildings.
At
least
the
land
is
green
and
many
things
grow
here.
No
need
for
the
boom
irrigation
schemes
we
saw
passing
over
the
Libyan
desert.
Those
were
the
strange
circles
-
vast
booms
turned
by
the
pressure
of
water
pumped
out
into
the
aridness
thanks
to
oil
money.
Don't
come
to
Uganda
if
bananas
make
you
bilious.
There's
at
least
five
different
kinds
here,
ranging
from
the
small
yellow
ones
with
a
strong
flavour
to
the
green
ones
which
get
fried
(in
the
leaves)
and
mashed
into
the
staple
matoke.
Fruit
is
plentiful
and
fresh
here
-
mangoes
and
papayas
and
pineapples
and
oranges
(green
as
they
should
be.)
Beekeeping
is
popular
-
there's
a
belief
in
some
parts
that
the
beeswax
at
a
nest
entrance
helps
against
AIDS.
Goat
meat
is
on
the
menu
-
goats
and
sheep
are
herded
together
and
it's
difficult
to
tell
them
apart.
Sheep
tails
go
downwards,
goat
tails
go
upwards.
Grasshoppers
are
also
on
the
menu
-
wished
I
had
a
picture
of
the
UFO
like
spotlight
clusters
which
trapped
grasshoppers
in
nets.
One
menu
had
"chaps"
on
it
which
proved
to
be
flat
battered
sausage
meat.
All
in
the
party
had
upset
stomachs
at
one
stage
or
other.
After
my
dose
I
ate
sparingly
and
carefully
but
I
did
try
the
sorghum
"porridge".
This
brown
fermented
Ugandan
male
drink
is
an
acquired
taste
-
potent
but
potently
sour.
There's
a
millet
"porridge"
too
(inferior
I
was
told.)
Oh
and
millet
bread
which
is
like
chestnut
stuffing.
Africans
use
hot
milk
with
tea,
hot
milk
rather
than
water.
Everything
goes
into
the
kettle
making
tea
a
different
experience
to
what
teabags
give.
There
weren't
many
young
men
in
the
mountain
village
we
stayed
in
-
away
working
on
the
tea
plantations.
Uganda
has
a
wide
range
of
terrains
from
rainforest
to
red
desert
scrubland
to
cooler
mountain
regions.
Some
of
it
reminded
me
of
England's
green
and
pleasant
land,
and
it
was
green
and
lush
(I
was
there
during
the
wetter
half
of
the
year
-
lying
on
the
equator
there's
just
two
seasons
a
wet
and
a
dry.)
When
it
rains
it
really
pours
and
thunders.
In
the
mountainous
south
saw
what
looked
like
cacti
but
were
Candelabra
trees
(Euphorbia
candelabrum.)
Put
that
against
what
they
called
eggplants
which
were
definitely
not
aubergines
(they
did
look
like
eggs.)
Or
the
pumpkin
which
Pastor
Guster
auctioned
at
the
end
of
the
service
in
Rwancerere
(more
a
white
gourd.)
Many
people
are
subsistence
farmers
and
live
without
earning
or
spending
-
so
church
collections
includes
fruit
and
vegetable
which
get
auctioned
as
part
of
the
proceedings.
As
one
drives
along
you
will
see
lots
of
red
bougainvillea,
or
mauve
jacaranda,
or
white
and
yellow
arum
lilies
(moon
flowers?)
grown
to
attract
bees.
Or
see
Hathor-like
longhorn
cattle
grazing
by
papyrus
beds,
or
glossy
sacred
ibises,
or
yellow
weaver
birds
climbing
up
into
their
nests,
or
see
the
gross
Malibu
storks
scavenging.
And
you
may
hear
the
sibilant
whistling
thorn
trees
(I
kid
you
not.)
It
was
the
smaller
lifeforms
I
was
worried
about,
and
I
gratuitously
applied
eucalyptus
based
insect
repellent
and
tried
to
use
mosquito
nets.
Mosquitoes
were
only
really
noticeable
in
the
Lake
Victoria
area,
and
tsetse
flies
were
further
north.
I
took
"malarone"
against
malaria,
and
was
careful
about
water
used
for
drinking
and
cleaning
teeth.
In
passing
there
are
albinos
here
and
their
lot
is
not
pleasant.
Whether
it's
genetic,
or
having
no
protection
against
a
strong
sun,
nonetheless
they're
often
blind
and
disabled.
Polio
and
clubfeet
are
problems,
together
with
amputation
being
a
simpler
treatment
if
you
have
poor
medical
facilities.
Uganda
is
a
poor
country
full
of
need.
What
we
wouldn't
miss
from
our
bank
accounts
will
make
a
big
difference
there.
We
can
so
easily
make
a
difference
to
them,
support
them,
give
them
hope.
Going
there
made
me
think
about
aid,
the
questions
to
be
answered
about
aid.
Why?
This
is
the
question
to
start
with,
I'm
not
being
jocular.
Why
give
aid?
One
might
give
aid
because
one
feels
guilty.
It'll
take
more
than
putting
a
coin
into
a
tin
to
erase
guilt.
One
might
give
aid
because
sympathy
is
awakened
by
a
moving
picture
on
the
TV.
A
good
why
but
good
also
to
strengthen
and
deepen
the
why
of
aid
by
tying
to
one's
core
beliefs.
If
those
core
beliefs
are
Christian
then
one
can
go
right
back
to
the
Old
Testament
for
there
should
be
no
poor
among
you,
or
leave
gleanings
for
the
widows
and
aliens.
What
to
aid?
There
is
a
kind
of
aid
which
only
'satisfies'
the
donor.
A
lot
of
aid
sadly
falls
into
this
category.
There's
palliative
aid
which
improves
things
-
for
the
short-term.
Best
is
unattractive
long-term,
low-key
aid
helping
people
like
the
Ugandans
help
themselves.
Ugandans
are
not
stupid,
they're
trying
things
like
different
crops
and
tree
grafting,
they're
trying
to
get
their
communities
working
together.
They'll
come
up
with
ideas
appropriate
for
their
situation
rather
than
what
we
might
suggest.
How
to
aid?
It's
difficult
to
tell
from
the
UK
how
much
good
one's
donation
is
really
doing.
It
was
a
privilege
to
go,
to
be
part
of
the
party
thanked
for
sewing
machines
and
computers
and
books
and
chemistry
equipment
and
plaster
of
paris
and
money
for
corrugated
roofs.
But
in
terms
of
judging
where
to
put
aid,
how
well
aid
is
acting,
I
would
rely
on
local
Ugandans.
As
a
'msungu'
(white
man)
one
cannot
but
affect
what
you're
observing.
There
is
a
real
danger
of
a
Potemkin
village
effect.
Or
of
using
aid
to
buy
appreciation.
The
decisions
about
where
to
put
aid
are
almost
life
and
death
decisions.
That's
too
close
to
playing
God
for
me.
29th Apr 2005
We're
not
exactly
settled
in
yet
but
please
look
around
our
new
home.
Feel
free
to
put
your
feet
up
and
rest
on
the
sofa
(if
there's
space
which
there
isn't.)
Or
imagine
you're
signing
our
imaginary
visitors
book.
The
move
went
pretty
well
and
NTL
connected
us
up
to
TV
(so
I
could
watch
Dr
Who
meet
a
Dalek),
the
telephone,
and
broadband
internet
(so
I
could
upload
these
webpages.)
A
lot
remains
to
be
sorted
out
-
the
fridge
freezer
and
other
equipment
doesn't
quite
fit
into
the
gaps,
loads
of
boxes
remain
to
be
unpacked,
the
gas
may
not
be
connected.
But
I'm
grateful
to
be
here
in
what
I
hope
will
be
more
relaxing
than
the
last
house.
24th Jun 2005
Virginia
and
I
spent
a
long
weekend
24th
to
27th
June
in
the
North
Norfolk
area.
On
the
way
up
we
visited
the
Thursford
Collection
during
a
real
downpour
on
the
Friday.
There
we
saw
the
nifty
footwork
of
resident
organist
Robert
Wolfe
on
a
Wurlitzer.
How
can
the
brain
control
so
much?
We
overdosed
out
on
stately
homes
of
which
there
are
plenty
in
the
area.
We
saw
Blickling
and
Holkham
and
Felbrigg
but
I
confess
these
in
my
mind
all
blur
into
each
other.
The
old
faded
paintings,
libraries
of
uniformly
bound
books,
false
doors
through
which
servants
entered,
deer
parks,
ice
houses,
elaborate
silver
tableware,
sugar
nippers,
manicured
formal
gardens
seem
to
be
the
form
for
the
houses
of
the
nobles.
We
stayed
in
a
guest
house
in
Little
Walsingham
which
is
even
more
historical
than
a
stately
home.
A
site
of
pilgrimage
for
over
a
millennium,
it
had
a
mixture
of
shops
including
statues
and
icons
if
you
wanted
to
take
some
holiness
home
with
you.
We
had
a
good
tarragon
chicken
in
the
Black
Lion
on
a
very
wet
day
26th Aug 2005
Virginia
had
an
inner
urge
to
see
Legoland
so
we
went
down
to
the
Windsor
area
on
the
August
Bank
holiday
weekend.
Not
an
ideal
weekend
as
it
was
the
last
weekend
in
the
school
holidays,
and
the
bank
holiday
weekend
to
boot.
Not
an
ideal
weekend
as
the
B&B
we
stayed
in
in
Englefield
Green
was
a
lemon.
Tiny
dilapidated
room.
Fellow
'guests'
who
returned
in
the
early
hours
to
play
loud
music.
We
did
however
see
Savill
Gardens
(enjoyable),
Legoland
(best
seen
with
the
heart
of
a
child,)
and
Windsor
Castle
(getting
in
was
like
boarding
an
airplane,)
and
had
Sunday
lunch
with
an
aunt
so
mission
accomplished
on
that
front.
Getting
into
Windsor
Castle
was
rather
like
boarding
an
airplane,
but
security
checks
are
understandable.
Once
inside
the
scale
of
the
place,
and
the
serried
ranks
of
portraits
and
china
and
swords
and
rifles
and
ornaments
impressed.
As
they
were
meant
to.
Some
houses
are
just
for
living
in.
But
Windsor
Castle
is
not.
The
size
of
the
place,
the
solidity,
the
opulence,
the
order
of
the
place
are
all
designed
to
make
an
impression.
To
intimidate,
to
strike
awe.
But
behind
the
pomp
and
circumstance
there's
only
ordinary
mortals.
29th Aug 2005
Houghton
Hall
was
the
seat
of
Robert
Walpole
Britain's
first
prime
minister,
later
associated
with
the
Cholmondeley
family
(pronounced
Chumley.)
Fine
set
of
rooms
but
not
a
coherent
style.
Good
gardens.
4th Sep 2005
Biggin
Hill
air
show.
A
mass
of
people
from
families
on
outings
to
enthusiasts
with
prodigious
lenses
on
their
cameras.
A
mass
of
stalls
from
perfume
shops
through
funfair
antics
to
authentic
pilot
uniforms.
Ice
cream
and
burger
stalls.
Like
being
at
the
beach
save
it
was
airfield
grass.
Hard
to
find
Virginia's
male
relatives
again
after
I
wandered
off
in
search
of
amenities.
A
long
search
it
was
too.
We
were
there
to
see
a
circus
of
flying
machines.
It
had
a
lot
in
common
with
the
circus.
Aerobatics
rather
than
acrobatics.
Dizzying.
Mad
behaviour
like
the
wing
walking.
Displays
of
power
like
the
jump
jet
standing
still
or
what
impressed
me
a
helicopter
doing
a
loop.
Nostalgic
flights
from
WW2
aircraft.
We
left
before
the
end
which
may
have
saved
us
time
-
the
access
roads
to
Biggin
Hill
are
not
good.
14th Sep 2005
Jigsaws
are
a
very
pleasant
way
of
passing
the
time.
It's
taken
a
little
while
but
here
is
Virginia
celebrating
her
latest
completed
jigsaw
puzzle.
25th Dec 2005
Christmas
with
the
soft
toys
-
or
how
our
soft
toys
got
into
the
festive
mood.