We got up bright and early - had the cardboard breakfast that the Devonwood offered then set off to Te Puai for the fumaroles. Not too much sulphur - saw some of the geysers bubbling away. Wish I had more time at Rotorua but felt I needed to get over to Waitomo.

The spellbound tour was good - a splendid glide of a boat ride down a a subterranean river towards a waterfall. Overhead the glow-worms glowed like stars. Great, and there was solid commentary from our guide about their life cycle. Though I didn't see the waterfall at the end. In the second cave there was a cave weta which I got too close to take reasonable pictures off. Found my self staying at Te Tiro ("The view" in Maori) - the Tuggles Gap of Tuggles gap. Te Tiro has a great view over the North Island but is really miles from anywhere, Down farm tracks with cryptic signs to be followed. Mobile phone a good idea.

Feijoia juice, kumara good food. Glow-worm in maggot having threads down, blue green light to attract flies - then pupal then three days adult - female glows to attract male - lays 40 or so eggs. Cycle about nine months long. Te Tiro has outside loo which you have to grope your way to in the dark - also has its own glowworm Grotto.