One high point of this trip was doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. My base camp was Discovery Lodge, a good place to stay. Helpful staff who gave good advice for the hazardous undertaking, called me by name which made feel like a friend not a guest, I was defeated for a while by the shower having to set blue rather than red to get warmth. We started the crossing at 6am, rather early, but there are advantages in not climbing in the crowds or the heat of the day.

A few kilometres into the 19km plus tramp a sign said STOP, warning you to be prepared for what followed. If I had known how hard the crossing was I wouldn't have tried it. Going up it seemed like I had to stop every few paces for my heart rate to drop to normal, in places the screes were treacherous and I slid more than I stepped, coming down my feet and legs were suffering from repeated heavy footfalls. My ears felt the cold, could have used the Mongolian style head covering one crosser had. As everyone overtook me began to worry if I was going to get round before the last shuttle. Could only admire those who were running round!

Having said all that this is a beautiful walk to do. You go from tussocks in the early dawn, through gorses and high heather, across patches of ice and snow, gambol through glacier valleys, wander beside hidden streams in beech forest, descend screes overlooking alien emerald lakes, look down through the clouds at enchanted Lake Taupo far away, cross craters with brooding volcanoes overlooking, hunt for the path in fell mists, see and scent sulphurous smoke from many-coloured rocks. One has indeed wandered onto sets for an epic film as parts of Lord of the Rings was filmed here. Like many experiences this is best shared, I lost a lot by being the cat that walked by himself.