Buddha's birthday today and Unmunsa Buddhist Nun's temple was packed! But before that we stopped at a dammed Lake Unmun which cost hundreds of villagers their homes. It was dammed for irrigation. The coach got caught up in a massive tailback to the temple, and we had to settle for a 2km hike from where the coach could park. A pretty approach with flowers - perhaps the feminine touch. The faithful were washing statues of baby Buddha (apparently nine dragons gave him a wash when he was born), and buying more prayers to go on the colourful plastic lanterns hung around.

The temple provide food for three thousands of their visitors on this day, there were many more there, we got given a goody bag of sweets and banana segment which was generous of them. Picturesque, but we had seen other Buddhist temples. It was jam packed. There was a kind of garden with Buddhist sculptures on which coins had lodged. I feel embarrassed being there as a tourist, somehow diluting the moment for the worshippers - perhaps though many were there for the experience not as devout believers.

Onto a service station at Tongdosa where I had udon noodles with fried tofu - another job where you order at a counter and get a number. I also tried (with the guide's help) walnut balls which proved to be warm (best warm) pastry covered bean curd with walnut pieces in it. Tasty but I got more than I needed, my fellow tourists passed on them, the guide kindly had one. We drove to Busan, mostly on a motorway but partly on winding mountainous roads which the coach had problems - at one point we stalled trying to take a tight corner! An "oh no" moment.

Reached Busan (a bustling large port city with modern shopping malls and hotels) and had an interesting trawl through the Jagalchi fish market there, more piscine prisoners on death row including the obscene looking sea slugs. One fish head was still vainly gasping for breath without its body. Such places are very vibrant, a lot for the eye to take in. We had to wait for the coach to arrive at a pedestrian area with a car park right in the middle of it - the car park attendants continually were clearing the pedestrians out of the way to let the cars in and out. We then went to Busan Tower, obstructed by there being a pole vault event which meant roads had been closed - so we had another long climbing walk for our trip up to see very good views on this clear day over Busan. Then we walked to the Tower Hill Hotel (like the Commodore this has routers in each room) and waited for the coach to be able to reach us with our baggage. We only found one lift in the Tower Hill hotel to start with which was inconvenient.

In the evening (it was in the evening when we eventually reached our rooms) I walked to the Lotte Department Store Busan and got too close to a Shabu Shabu bar, letting myself be talked into trying one of the dishes. What I didn't understand until too late was that you cooked the food yourself! Happily a very kind Korean lady schooled me in doing the necessary: you cook the vegetables first, they take longest - put soya sauce and spicy sauce into a container which also had kimchi and wasabi in it - the thin sliced ham cooks in a few seconds - when you're done eating that put in the noodles in my case (rice is quicker which she had) - turn off the cooking element and finish the noodles and then time to pay. Then walk back to the hotel using the underpass which leads to one of the underground shopping malls in Busan.

The next day the tour ended with a motorway drive to Seoul from Busan which was straightforward, staying at the Aventree Hotel as before. Had a Croque Monsieur in the Cafe Oreum which was novel - ham as well. Got some washing done ready for the last few days - had the machines to myself. Torrential rain which drove me to the sin of frequenting Macdonalds in the evening out of desperation!