We drove back to the crater rim again, up into the cloud layer, then started a big descent. We descended through verdant forest crowded with thieving baboons, then Acacia forests, then dry scrubland with scattered Acacia trees, then dry grassland bereft of rain, then the arid Olduvai Gorge before coming to South Serengeti of the endless plain as the Maasai call it (Serengeti is a corruption of the Maasai word for endless plain their language is called Maa).

It was a dusty and bumpy drive, had to repeatedly close and open my window to balance not suffocating in a noisy turbulent greenhouse with suffocating in a dust cloud. After another vehicle passed you couldn't see anything for seconds. The road was often churned by bulldozers improving it. Along the way we saw Maasai women selling honey at the roadside, they use honey for medicine. Maasai steered their cattle and goats over long distances for water, they dug holes in dry riverbeds. Maasai women used donkeys to ferry water back to their villages.

South Serengeti is an endless plain of dry grass, you do see gazelles now and then, but eventually you come to the vastness of Central Serengeti. Rocky outcrops called kopjes sail like islands in a grassy sea. Hyenas bask on them, lions and leopards shelter on them. Acacia sprout here and there, sometimes in groups attracting elephants. Long grass shelters the hunters and the prey. There are streams and pools containing hippos and crocodiles.

We did see a cheetah in long grass perhaps eating, and a leopard lazing on a tree branch with its legs hanging down. Some lions relaxing, including a group of eight just zonked out in the shade by the road. We saw a rare Serval cat prowling through the grass, and Secretary Birds looking for things to stamp on. Innumerable zebras and gazelles and wildebeest migrating in single file miles long between water and food. Topi and hartebeest and ostriches and Topi and elephants.

Eventually we got to to the tented Kati Kati Camp number 2. A guy called Nixon checked me in for Tent #2. To use the shower they bring an external bucket and stand outside asking when you've done. I didn't pull the lever far enough at first, and it also took me some times to master the 3 pushes required to prime the toilet so it actually flushed. At night you need escorting to the meal tent, they shone torches revealing a hyena ready and waiting as we ate. After I was escorted back to tent 2 they sang Tanzanian happy birthday to some lucky person. I was very glad I had brought a good torch as the lights in the tent were too dim or non-functional to be able to do my teeth or use the toilet.