Breakfast at Casa Vieja was actually at the Casa Rita across the narrow road. Not as good as other breakfasts I've had in Mexico. The chair I was sat in was wobbly on the uneven floor. There was no orange juice which I do like at the start of the day. The sliced toast wasn't neatly wrapped hot artisan breads.
It's decidedly colder here - the temperature isn't scheduled to get above 20C today! We went first to Chamula and to see a Church with a stylish green facade on the outside. Green represents life and immortality. Inside was truly bizarre, a Roman Catholic facade over ancient Mayan beliefs in this Tzotzil speaking area. Round the walls were plaster statues of Catholic saints dressed like at a girls' birthday party. They were also wearing mirrors, the belief being the mirror would reflect the saint's (or real Mayan god's) spirituality to the believer. The floor was covered with pine needles and small groups of indigenous natives sat around, each group had rows of candles burning away in front of them. Previously I was shown another church which had burnt down as a result of candle power. This Church was full of candles and at markets you can buy holy candles for stomach aches job interviews etc.
The worshippers each recite a prayer as a mantra repeatedly until they feel in tune with their Mayan deity. They then say what they're after. Sometimes this involves killing a chicken if they feel someone else has put the evil eye on them. Putting the evil eye on someone is done in secret and requires a black chicken. The indigenes believe they have a spirit soul, an animal of various sizes according to their social standing. This spirit soul (or chulel) can wander off in a nightmare and have to be coaxed back.
In this area there were overly flashy houses built by those who worked in the USA. The natives wear black sheep wool coverings in the rain, even small children.
We next went to Zinacantan (literally valley of bats) which was more prosperous than Chamula, thanks to the town being full of greenhouses and the place mass-producing flowers. We went to a cooperative where we saw black tortillas being made by hand (not bad once you get over any colour prejudice). I tried the local moonshine Pox (with cinnamon is better than without). We were shown weaving on a traditional Mayan hand loom. A small donation was required for this visit. I also helped their finances by being weak and buying a woven cushion cover. Zinacantan is in a different municipality to Chamula and there was a war in which they were on different sides, still not forgotten after 100s of years.
Had a tour round San Cristobal and its food markets. They pile up fruit in neat pyramids. You can buy roasted ants if that appeals to you, I'm told crisps are nicer. Loads of spices and fruits I'm not familiar with available, don't ask me their names. The area felt subterranean.
I had lunch at Bilil, the manager was very helpful and it was a good place to eat. My main course was drowning in mole (chocolate and chilli), I may not add this to my staple diet. In the evening I went to El Secreto (again suggested by Gaby) which was very good but more expensive.
A gang of English tourists came to Casa Vieja to lower the tone - when I'm in foreign parts I like not to be around my fellow countrymen and women. The hawkers also wandered into Casa Vieja, I feel bad ignoring the natives selling their cloths or when they're begging. The natives do get government aid and you can see them queueing up for it early in the morning.