A very early start to be at Angkor Wat before sunrise. The stars were out bright and clear as my guide led the way by phone light to the back of the Angkor Wat complex. We walked around the side to see other worshippers of tourist must sees had arrived, a crowd had assembled by a lake in front of Angkor Wat, I almost expected them to plunge into the lake when 6am came and they let people into Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat was undergoing restoration like Angkor Thom, originally a Hindu temple so more dancers carved on the walls, more history written in Sanskrit, more Hindu deities represented. I had to bare my head to go up to the third floor with good views over the complex, and Buddhist shrines.

After Angkor Wat my guide took me to Ta Prohm, saving the best for last. Another temple but this time with trees wrapping their roots round the ruins, like giant squids tearing away at man’s hubris with irresistible tentacles. A real sense of one had just walked through the jungle to discover something lost to time. An Indiana Jones or a Tomb Raider feeling.

Saw the rats of Apopo in action, a worthwhile cause, but refused the chance to cuddle one of the heroic rodents. The experience felt a little short but it was earnest. I then went to Artisans D’Angkor to look at their silks. An expensive place but if I got something I didn’t want to end up with the less than genuine article. Boosted my confidence by returning to the Montra Nivesha by tuk-tuk all by myself!

Went to Kanell to see a good show including Apsara and Cambodian martial arts. I entered to a kind of ritual welcome then stood in a waiting area until being shown to a front row table, lucky me. Kanell didn’t seem that full but happily a coach party turned up so the performers got decent applause. It was of essence tourist fodder you could say, but I was not disappointed by this taster of traditional Khmer culture.

I didn’t eat that much of the five course meal that went with the entertainment, the beef was still pinkish despite my asking for well done, but as my stomach was queasy again I erred on the side of caution. I had weakened and ordered a glass of wine which turned out to be red and I only drink white! After the show the chef and manager turned up I thought out of worry for my not eating much but in fact they went to every table.

Was unsure I was ending up back at the right hotel in the return tuk-tuk ride, but I did. The driver seemed to ask if I wanted to go to a massage parlour but I don’t think he was. He may have just been seeing if he could take me for a ride the following day. Tuk-tuk drivers can wait hours to give return trips.