It’s very cold overnight in Cusco but warms up enthusiastically during the day. So during tourism in the morning I gradually shed clothes.

Elvira took me to see Sacsayhuaman, another huge Inca site with zigzag walls and a large water reservoir. I learnt that “Inca” was the name for the ruler so calling the people Inca is a misnomer. When Pisarro arrived Sacsayhuaman must have been an incredible sight as the temple building was covered in gold, he said he saw two suns when he saw the place one being the setting sun the other the temple.

We also saw Puka Pukara a watch-tower and stop for travellers and Qenko which had a tunnel I didn’t venture in. At a factory ‘outlet’ Millmas  I had an explanation of how to differentiate real alpaca products from acrylic wool fakes. Some beautiful wall hangings but too large to take back, and at 32,000 Sol out of my price bracket. I settled for some wool to give my sister. I was allowed to feed the alpaca and managed to avoid them chewing on my fingers.

We saw the old Incan sun temple at Koricancha, incredible stone work, another place where the Spanish built on top of. In the centre is a large quadrangle with a fountain in the middle, lines from that radiate out towards areas of the Incan empire including Machu Picchu. We walked to the main square to see more of the dancers performing, and also to visit Cusco Cathedral with its blend of Catholicism and Inca culture. So there’s a painting of the Last Supper with a guinea pig for the meal. The Virgin Mary has a sun halo.

I was disappointed to see a Macdonalds in the main square but at least Macdonalds and Starbucks are not allowed to use their normal signs and colours here. Inca Cola is not bad, kind of lemony. I patronised the MAP pre-colombian Art Gallery which has some fine exhibits in it.

Ate my last evening meal at Chifa Lyam Chang, a Chinese restaurant with Peruvian overtones. Apologies but I don’t like pineapples. Filling and very reasonably priced. Saw a cat cafe on my way back.

Dogs roam freely in Peru. The kettle in my Peru hotel is the smartest I’ve ever used, it displays what the temperature is as it heats the water!