The next day (23rd October) after a good full English breakfast we survived the stress of weird road systems to get to Cheddar Gorge, and the purse survived the stress of the sizeable entrance fee for Gough's Cave. We were happily an early customer so wandered the echoey caverns without the happy sound of children hunting us. At Cheddar Gorge they handed out handsets with numbered narration for the various places, I didn't listen really. Damp, algae and lichen and even weeds growing in the artificial light. Beautiful flows of calcite, magical pools mirrors.

Right at the lowest point a helpful guide confirmed I had seen a bat, showed how translucent the stalagmites were with a green laser pointer, turned down the lights so we could see how little the original discoverers saw. Cheddar Gorge cave had some cheese being cave matured, we got some in the shops outside the caverns when we exited - we could have bought a wheel of cheese for £340 but it would take us years to eat it! Odd was a politically correct museum which argued that cannibalism is quite reasonable really. Roast leg of insurance salesman anyone?

Our lunch was less adventurous but pleasant in the nicely old Almshouse Teashop. We did a bit more history in the King John Hunting Lodge which as it dates from well after his time may not have much to do with him. Plenty of exhibits, and a panel to open to see wattle and daub (being able to see through the floorboards to the room below was eerie).