Nakasendo Highway
Monday, 17th November 2025

I was glad to see there were Japanese staying at the Hotel Fukinomori! The day before I only saw Westerners like me.

Breakfast was different almost kaiseki like. I had the grilled the tofu and duck but passed on the horse and fish. An easy journey to Magome by hotel shuttle then by public bus (where you paid on leaving not on entering). It helped Magome was the last stop.

I got some supplies in Magome before starting the steep ascent out of Magome on the Nakasendo Highway. Very pretty is the Nakasendo Highway which explains why many people were walking it, both Japanese and foreigners like me. There is a pair of waterfalls to see (one male one female). The trees were showing their autumn colours in many places. A tea-house of sorts offered free tea along the way.

A lot of traditional houses lie along the Nakasendo Highway. There is deliberate effort to preserve the way the area looked in times past. The way is steep in places but starting at Magome meant the later stages were easier for me.

A Polish guy called Michael suggested we walk together for company which was great. Nothing like sharing things with other people. He said he was worried about the brown bears but this may have just been politeness. There were bells for ringing along the way to deal with the bears. You could buy bear bells in the numerous souvenir shops on the way along with nice looking treen.

I reached Tsumago much earlier than expected and had to wait ages for the hotel shuttle back. I had a banana shake in the Good Day Coffee Shop which passed only a little of the time. Bumped into Michael again there, and I hope helped him by looking up railway timetables.