The Turks put the Greeks to shame with how well organised the tour was. On the bus we were given a radio to hear the guide at a distance, a generous bottle of water, and a questionnaire to fill in. The guide Oz (that's what he said his name was) didn't belabour us with boring history or moans about history (though he would have been entitled to mention the Crusades.) He was amusing and informative, and even taught us a little Turkish. 'A-vet' is yes, "Higher" will do for no, and "To sugar a dream" said quickly will do for thank you. We first saw Virgin Mary's supposed house - it may be sanctified by the Pope but I have my doubts. It has become a place of pilgrimage, and you can buy trinkets similar to the ones the silversmiths did in Ephesus for Artemis. The silversmiths who got worried by the Apostle Paul's teaching. Which brings us to Ephesus.